Shiloh

Building in the woods – out where the wild things are . .

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Bird blocks are going in . .

The last few weeks we have been working on what are called the bird blocks. These fit between the rafters on top of the walls and the roof is built over them. We decided to go with 4 x 12′s since that is what we have for rafters. Of course I didn’t plan ahead and order them at the same time we ordered the rafters. That would have been too easy right? We have to do this the hard way! In my defense I didn’t realize that lumber yards didn’t actually keep 4 x 12′s in stock. Unlike the rafters these didn’t have to be 22 feet long as each bird block is around 40 inches in length. I thought they would at least have 10 or 12 foot 4 x 12′s.

I spent several days calling around to find out there was  exactly 17 feet of 4 x12′s in the area. This was one board milled from cedar wood so it was over 13 dollars a foot. We needed about 80 feet so it was both a little short and very expensive! Getting desperate I called a couple of local guys who run portable sawmills. I am going to have write up a post about portable mills, but  the short version is that a portable sawmill is exactly like it sounds. It is a mill that can be transported on a trailer by a pickup truck to a work site and used to mill up logs. Of course the logs can be brought to where the mill is as well, and that is often easiest. Even the best mills take 30 minutes or so to set up and another 30 minutes to tear down.

Paul (one of the local portable sawmill operators) ended up coming out to the site and took a look at our setup. It turns out he had a few logs at his place so we ended up agreeing to a price for him to mill up 80 feet of his logs. Cheaper and faster than getting it through a lumberyard. Yeah!

This was nine days ago. Paul delivered the new 4 x 12′s in two or three days. They look much better than our rafter boards that we bought from a “big box” store. Our only issue was with some carpenter ants who thought they were going to take up residence in my board but it was resolved with some wood treatment. Once this was done and the board were sanded it was time to start putting them into place. We stained the four inch edges of the boards before they were put into place. This left the two “faces”  of the board unstained. We did this because the moisture content of the wood was to high and they need to dry more before the final staining. The stain acts as as sealant and would trap the moisture inside causing bubbling of the stain and other nasty side effects. Much easier to just stain those two sides in six months or so after the wood has dried sufficiently.

Paul came out on Saturday along with one of the guys who works with him. We were able to install 14 out of 22 of the bird blocks. Putting these bird blocks into place actually resolved a previous problem that we had. A number of the rafters were warped — some quite a bit. The distance between two rafters might be 39 inches measured at the bottom of the two rafters and 38 inches between the two tops. This was because one of the rafter was twisted due to the warping and the top was kind of laying over some. The bird blocks were cut to the proper size as if the rafters were sitting straight as they should have been. Forcing the bird blocks into place would make the rafters sit as they should with an end result of a much better looking set of rafters. It was a lot of hard work requiring at various times wedges and a crow bar but the end result was worth it. Here is Paul and Kevin (his helper) putting in one of the bird blocks:

Next weekend we will finish the bird blocks with a couple of hours of work and then begin laying the tongue and groove decking.  Rachel has been working on the decking for quite a while now staining it and getting it ready for placement. There are only about 30 pieces of tongue and groove left to be stained out of a total of  around 250 boards. The contrast between the unfinished wood and the stained wood is quite dramatic:

Our friend Josh came out on Saturday and was a huge help with the staining. He had not been out to the house site since the logs were being peeled and I think he was little impressed with the changes:

While it is certainly impressive now, I can’t wait until the roof is on and the stain is put on the logs. I suspect it will be quite breathtaking at that point.

keith

Rafters are in place

We started putting up the rafters last weekend and completed them this weekend. It was a study in contrasts really and (now) somewhat amusing. But, before I describe the two weekends, a bit of background is in order.

As I mentioned in the last post each rafter is nominally 4 inches by 12 inches by 22 feet. Two rafters are bolted together at one end and then “unfolded” so that it is almost 44 feet in length. Where the two rafters are bolted rests on the ridgepole of the house allowing each rafter to extend out to the cap logs. It is very unwieldy while getting set up, but rock solid once in place. While it is possible to place the rafters one at a time, it is difficult to bolt them together . . . someone has to sit on the ridgepole 25 feet in the air, dodge the heavy rafter that is probably trying to knock you off and then get it lined up with another rafter to the 1/8th of an inch. Then you need a hammer, a carriage bolt, a nut and a washer. Oh, and your lunch because it’s going to be long day. Since it’s Florida in July you should take a gallon of cold water as well. Because of this complexity we never even attempted to set any rafters this way.

After many long conversations we elected to attempt placement with the trust old telehandler. You will recall that we used this to place the wall logs. I took off work on the 25th and about noon the rental company delivered the forklift.

I will spare everyone the agony of going through the details of the next fifty-four hours. A condensed version is that we tried . . .really hard . . . every way we could think of to get a bolted pair of rafters up. After working on it all day Friday and Saturday without success we went online and looked at some pictures from fellow LHBA members. Once we figured out how someone else had done it successfully we were able to adapt to our situation. On Sunday afternoon we tried with this new method and succeeded in getting our first pair of rafters in place. Three days and one pair of rafters is not a great success story. However, we did learn a huge amount and I thought we had turned a corner in our seemingly endless struggle with the rafters.

I was fortunate to have a long weekend again last weekend. We began working Friday morning and successfully placed three pair of rafters Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Monday morning we finished up the last two pair and after lunch did some adjusting of the positions of all the rafters. There is a little final tweaking in regards to placement and there are a few rafters that will need the log beneath them planed a little so the rafters are all level. Once this is done we can place the “bird blocking” between the rafters and begin working on the tongue and groove decking that will go over the rafters.

Both my dear wife and my dad have been great troopers during this part of the project. We didn’t have any other help and it was a tremendous amount of work. Aside from the actual placement of the rafters there is a huge amount of work in staining, sanding and assembling the rafters in preparation for lifting. The actual lifting and setting of the rafters ended up only taking about 15 – 45 minutes. Rachel actually had to ride up on the forks (attached to a safety harness of course) so that after the rafters were in place she could unstrap rafters. A few times she got a little green in the face riding the forklift 25 – 35 feet in the air. I couldn’t imagine why. The forklift only jerks and shakes and tilts from side to side. As hard as you try it just isn’t possible to operate a big forklift like the rental in a really smooth manner.

Here are a few pictures of the rafters:

Overhead view of the rafters:

All done:

The four unstained rafters are the pressure treated rafters that will be support the exposed overhangs for the front and rear of the house. We can’t stain them for another six months so they look a little odd right now.

It’s nice to reduce the (very) large pile of lumber down to a much more manageable small(er) pile of “just” tongue and groove. The 24 rafters were taking up some serious ground space! Among other things I am glad we don’t have to wrestle with several huge tarps to keep them covered up from our incessant rains.

Keith

Preparing for the roof

It has been a while since I last updated the site. We are going to be beginning the actual roof work within the next several weeks so I thought it was good time to catch everyone up on what has been happening.

One of the main concerns we have is insuring that the logs are ready for staining. Removing all the cambium from the logs is necessary in order to ensure that the stain adheres properly to the logs. Unfortunately removing the remnants of cambium left over from when we peeled the bark off the logs is neither easy nor quick. We have been using a pressure washer to remove the last of the cambium and just yesterday Rachel finished up the last log.

This picture clearly shows the difference between pressure washed and non-pressure washed:

In addition we have been sanding some areas of the logs where there are nicks from the logger’s equipment.  This is a fairly easy, if tedious, task of taking the time to look over each log and using a “flap disk” mounted on an angle grinder to smooth out the imperfections.

Several weeks ago we had our rafters and tongue and groove delivered. The rafters are 22 feet long 4 x 12s made from southern yellow pine. There are sixteen “untreated” rafters and eight that are pressure treated. The untreated rafters can be moved for short distances by two people – one at each end. I suspect they weight 200  – 250 pounds. Oddly some rafters really seem to weigh more than others. And not just a little. I can only assume that some were not as dried as the others. The pressure treated ones probably weight closer to 400 pounds and can only be lifted by two people on one end at a time. They haven’t been dried yet and will require six months or more of drying before they can be stained. However, we are going to put them in place and stain them after we have moved in (hopefully) so it won’t slow things down. Simply moving these rafters around is a challenge in itself.

Dad and I began staining the untreated rafters over the last weekend. After two days of hard work we have seven sanded, cleaned and stained. That leaves nine needing to be stained and the remaining eight pressure treated rafters need to be sanded. Unfortunately, during the sawing and transport of the rafters there were quite a few nicks and dents that have to be cleaned up.

Here is a a couple of the rafters after they have been stained:

* Note to self — next time we go through this process be sure and buy a portable sawmill. It would not have cost much more to buy a mill and mill my own rafters. They would be in much better shape when it comes time to stain and hey it would be cool to cut your own rafters. Any time you get to buy really big power equipment it’s a win right?

About two weeks before Memorial Day it began getting hot. It is now routinely in the 90′s. Last weekend the heat index was over 100 for both Saturday and Sunday. It makes working a particular challenge. We can’t really work as long as normal and the work is just slower. Ironically the LHBA (Log Home Builder’s Association) website recently had “summer is for building log homes”. Understand that the LHBA is headquartered near Seattle, Washington so their weather patterns are much different than ours. I would say the exact opposite…summer is for going to the beach  :) Spring, Fall and most of the Winter is for building log homes in the southeast United States.

* Another note to self — next time we go through this process and build in Florida we should have the logs delivered in February and peeled by April. We should then  pour the foundation in early September and begin “serious work” — laying logs — as soon as it starts getting reasonable in temperature. The house should be built to the point where central heat and air is installed and running by Memorial Day. This is even more important the first note to self.

Not really a whole lot to show, but we are pressing on. I want to have the roof finished by the end of July or early August so we can take some time off before hopefully finishing things up the last part of the year.

Ridgepole UP!!!

Yesterday we had the privilege and pleasure of raising our ridgepole. It marks a major milestone for us. On Saturday we had put in the final ridge pole support log. The problem was it began raining so hard we couldn’t finish bolting it in place. We began the morning doing some preparations including finishing the installation of this rpsl.

Once preparations on the ground were complete we moved to final preparation of the the three ridge pole support logs. We had purposely cut the logs too long and it was necessary to cut them to the proper height. Since the ridgepole tapers it was necessary to determine the diameter of the ridgepole at the three points where it would be supported by the RPSLs. Then we could calculate the exact height needed for each RPSL and measure and cut  . . .

Next comes the ridgepole . . .

Now we move it into place:

Up it goes.

Still going . .

It took about 30 – 45 minutes to actually get the ridgepole into place. Even with the help of someone on each side of the house, it took more than one try to get things lined up. I had to drive the forklift within two feet of the house to get the ridgepole in place and I could not see anything from the seat of the lift.

And finally we had moonrise!

Here’s the view from about 30 feet up:

While not the easiest part of the building process, requiring a lot of planning, it is definitely one of the most satisfying parts. To see this very important piece of the puzzle go into place gives you a great deal of satisfaction. While it wasn’t strictly required there was a lot of worry on my part. If this didn’t go right we could end up with a roof that isn’t correct. Fortunately it went almost exactly as planned. That is a big relief on my part.

We had some great help from some soon-to-be LHBA members. They are taking the class next month and have great plans for their future. We really appreciate their help and hope to see them again in the near future.

Sailing, sailing over the bounding main

No, we haven’t gone on a cruise. It would be nice though!

It’s just that our house now looks like a sailing ship from the 1800′s. Well, sort of like a sailing ship. Let me explain :)

In the past several weeks we worked on the walls completing the 17th course. On Friday we began the process of placing our ridgepole support logs (rpsl). This entailed taking a 30 ft long log with a 16″ diameter butt and placing it on 12″ piece of rebar sticking up from a pier block. Oh, and you had to lift the log over a 18.5 foot high wall just to make it fun. Once over the wall, it is lowered down where you can’t see it. While I had great help with my dad and wife, relaying hand signals from someone inside the walls, to someone outside the walls to the driver of the forklift makes it extremely difficult. In fact, at one point we had the second rpsl “jump off” the rebar in the foundation because I was lowering the rpsl not realizing it was not going straight down but away from wall. It’s a bit disconcerting when the front of your forklift rocks down and the back end wants to lift up off the ground.

I wish we had videoed the event. It would probably be worth a few laughs down the road. We put two of the three rpsls in place – one on Friday and one on Sunday. Both cleared the top of the wall by at most 12 inches. It was probably closer to 6 inches. Here is the second one going over:

The end result is the “sailing ship” I was talking about:

With one more rpsl and the final course of logs (the 18th) to place we are closing in on being able to cap things off with the ridgepole. There is an, admittedly small, glimmer of hope that we might place the ridgepole Sunday.

Cutting a new ridgepole

Work continues on the walls, but last weekend we took a slight detour in order to cut a new ridgepole. When we cut the trees for the house we choose and marked five trees that were larger for the caplogs and the ridgepole. They needed to be longer for the roof overhang so we had them cut 45 feet long.

Well, one of the five that I marked didn’t get cut to the right length and one of the trees was marked unacceptable by the timber inspector. That left us with three logs. Two of them were more curved than we would like so for the last three or four weeks we have been discussing cutting one or two new trees off the property.

Last weekend we decided to cut one tree for a new ridgepole. We found one less than a 100 yards from the log staging area. In order to get the log back to the building area I had to be able to get the forklift to the area which was possible with this tree. The usable section needed to be at least 45 feet long. Estimates were made and there was even some discussion of using the forklift to tape measure the tree. Even so, it looked like it was at high enough. Dad fired up the Husqvarna and we cut down the tree bringing up a HUGE cloud of pine pollen. Good thing we weren’t allergic.

Two surprises, even though the butt of the tree was only an inch bigger than our biggest log, the ring count showed the tree was 101 years old! The trees we cut off the lot last October were 25 years old, so this one was over four times as old! The much tighter growth rings make the log stronger so this is not a bad thing.

Here is a picture showing the rings:

The second surprise was that the usable portion of the tree was EXACTLY 45 feet long. While our estimate was good enough, it would be much safer next time to actually measure and make sure it is long enough. After some limb trimming work and a bit of tricky forklift driving (and log hauling) and we had the trunk of the tree in the log staging area. Two days of off-and-on peeling and we had our beautiful new ridgepole. Here are some pictures from the peeling process:

She makes it look so easy, but trust me – it’s hard!

Here is dad squaring up the end of the ridgepole:

Our ridgepole is now ready to be treated so it doesn’t get insects. Hopefully we will putting it in its final home in a week or two.

Moving on up

It has been a while since we have updated the blog. Work continues. Last night we completed pinning the 14th course in place. After it is completed we only have four more to go! At this point we are 15.5 feet high at the top of the walls. In the next few days we will have to be putting the ridgepole support logs in place. The following picture was taken shortly after the 13th course was complete:

The kids love the forklift:

Future forklift driver:

He can’t reach the pedals yet, but he is trying.

We will be finishing the walls up in the next few weeks. This is of  course a huge milestone for us. Once the walls and ridgepole/ridgepole support logs are in place we can put up the roof and finally move into the interior for that part of the process.

Course ten complete (well . . almost)

This weekend it didn’t seem like we achieved much. Being a man down (Dad was out of town) it was a lot slower. Even so, we almost finished a complete course. Even more importantly, we had made some adjustments to the 10th course that worked out as needed. This was because when we measured on the ninth course it was a little off square. It turns out that we made the correct changes and our “box” is now exactly square. It’s a good thing, this course will be where the second-floor joists are attached. In terms of height to the top of each corner – three corners are within a 1/4″ of each. Unfortunately the fourth corner is about two inches lower than the other three. We realized, after the fact, why it happened. Should be something we can fix in the next few courses.

All in all, I’m pretty happy with it. Considering we are 12 feet off the ground at this point, building with 1500 pound logs that never seem to go together quite right…two inches in a single corner is O.K. We can fix it as we go up.  As a friend told me recently “You’re building a battleship, not a Swiss watch.” Which is quite true. I am no longer concerned about messing up the house if I hit it with the forklift…I’m worried about messing up the forklift.

In the following picture, if you look closely on the right side of the house you can see the 2×4 we use to measure wall height. The top of the 2×4 is just over 13 feet high . . . just to give you some perspective of how high it is now.

The following pictures is of our friends the girder and girder support log. Rebar on the bottom and the top of the girder support log. In the following picture you can see one of the ends of the girder. There are three pieces of rebar in each end if I recall correctly.

And finally, to give you some more perspective. Here is a picture of the best log home builder in the world standing next to some of the lower logs.

Putting in the girder

Since the last post we have continued to press forward with building the walls. When we reached the ninth course last weekend it was time to put in the girder. This will be used to hold up the second floor. Because of this, it’s pretty important that it is put in right. We used an log that was approximately eight feet long to support it. This log is called the girder support log (gsl). The girder itself, in our case, is approximately 32 feet long. It slid into place just as it grew dark last Sunday. Now that it is in place we can continue on placing the wall logs.

I don’t have any pictures yet of the girder. In the meantime, here are a couple of new pictures.

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The weather has been very cooperative lately. It’s looking like this weekend is going to be nice as well. Time to start on the 10th course!!

Wall building continues

It’s been a while since I updated so thought people might want to know what is going on. After this weekend we are almost half-way done building the walls. Very late Saturday we put the first part of the first log on the 8th course. It was a cheeky little log that managed to tie us up for about five hours of work.

As we go up the walls we are learning more and more about how to best stack these logs. My dear wife figured out something over the weekend that should keep the logs more more level where the ends meet at the corners. One of our issues has been that even though we tried to match up diameters there has been one to two inch differences in heights which has caused more gaps in the walls.

Anyways, when we put up the first log on the eighth course we could not get it to “sit” any better than having most of the log work properly with the last six or eight feet of the log crooked upward three or four inches above the log below it. It took us three or four lowering and lifting of the logs to determine that this was the “best” option.  Fortunately there is going to be a window opening in this section of the log. Down goes the log, out comes the trusty chainsaw and one log becomes two. This allowed the section that had been sticking up into the air to lay flat. While there was still a small part of the larger section that was raised up too much, but it will be acceptable as it will be right up on a window buck.

Some logs take 15 minutes to get in place and another 45 to drill and spike down. Some logs take 5 hours like the north log on the 8th course. That’s the nature of it.

Here is a picture done after we finished the 6th course with Dad’s pickup truck parked beside it for perspective:

And here is my little lumberjack (trying) to work with a cant hook: